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Other good keyboards
These keyboards are not good enough for the above points or simply do not have outstanding features. They are still worth checking out.
Razer BlackWidow V4 Pro 75% for $300: Razer’s newest, high-end keyboard does almost everything right, but it’s overpriced (7/10, WIRED review). The Pro maintains the same powerful touch switches and joint mounting system of the original BlackWidow V4 75% and adds wireless connectivity, a new dial on the side, and a customizable OLED display right next to it. These upgrades don’t justify the $110 price increase, but they’re still incredibly well executed and combine to create an impressive gaming keyboard if you can find it on sale.
Cherry XTRFY MX 3.1 for $119: Cherry’s latest entry into the gaming space is a full-size RGB-heavy keyboard that comes standard with its new MX2A switches and a “noise damping structure” intended to reduce noise when typing. This keyboard is a solid option with a loud sound profile, stylish RGB, and a sturdy metal chassis. While it’s a little clunky compared to some of the other keyboards on this list, it has a sturdy, simple build, and Cherry’s switches have repeatedly proven to be durable and reliable.
Wooting 60HE+ for $175: Between an archaic mounting method and long delivery wait times, I simply can’t recommend the 60HE over Keychron’s Q1 HE. While I still think it’s a fantastic Hall Effect keyboard, it just doesn’t have the same polish and refinement as Keychron’s offering. The 60HE still uses a tray mounting system which, while modular, doesn’t sound or feel great when typing. On top of that, the plastic casing disappoints for the price; was once an acceptable trade-off for customizable Hall-effect switches, but Keychron offers an all-metal, gasket-mounted keyboard for about $50 more, and I think the upgrades are worth it unless you prefer a 60% layout or want the ability to use the 60HE’s wide range of aftermarket housings.
Cherry KC 200 MX for $90: The KC 200 MX is an incredibly simple and basic keyboard that doesn’t add anything new or remove anything necessary. It’s a full-size mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX2A switches, a metal plate, and almost nothing else. It’s not customizable, it’s not programmable, but I can say with certainty that it will be durable, reliable, and at least somewhat fun to write for years to come.
Happy Hacking Keyboard Professional Hybrid Type-S for $360: While the new Studio has replaced this model as my choice for programmers, this older version is still great if you want something simpler or with a unique typing feel. The design is still excellent and the Topre switches are a pleasure to type on, a membrane-type and mechanical-type switch with a deep typing sound and a distinctive, rounded tactility. Additionally, these keyboards have an extensive community with spare parts and guides on how to modify them. The Pro Hybrid Type-S model specifically has extras like Bluetooth connectivity and silencing rings. It’s also reprogrammable using HHKB’s proprietary app, although there’s not much reason to modify the existing design unless you want a specific macro or feature layer change. It’s incredibly easy to find on the second-hand market for about half the price, making it a much more reasonable alternative to the Studio.
Melgeek Made68 for $149: With a more minimalist approach to its design and a stylish white and purple color combination, the Made68 has a great desktop presence that stands out from the crowd. Additionally, the deep customization of Melgeek’s Gateron-supplied Hall effect switches means that incredibly granular adjustments can be made to this keyboard’s typing experience, right down to the actuation distance of individual keys. The exterior appearance can also be customized, with removable side panels and an interchangeable light diffuser at the rear. Diffusers are currently available. in black, green and red Each includes new silver side panels. You will need a screwdriver set to remove any of these panels, however, as an Allen wrench is not included with the keyboard. Overall, the Made68 sounds and feels good when typing. The tray support isn’t ideal for typing feel, but the typical issues with typing consistency aren’t as prominent here as on other similar keyboards. At this price, a slightly flawed typing experience is a worthwhile trade-off for customizable Hall-effect switches and satisfying typing sound.
Change recommendations
Photography: Henri Robbins
Switches are a very important part of a mechanical keyboard; If you already have a board, try changing the switches if you want a new experience. I’m working on a guide to my favorite switches, but below are my recommendations if you want a silent, tactile, or linear switch.
Silent switches
One of the most common things friends and family ask me about are silent switches. For coworkers, roommates, family members, or partners, the constant clicking and clacking of a mechanical keyboard can be irritating. There are silent linear and silent tactile switches, but I find the silent linear ones to be more acceptable in terms of typing feel and actual silence. However, even the best quiet linear switches will feel a bit off compared to a non-silent switch.
The best silent switch available today is the Haimu’s heartbeat ($11 for 36 switches). Once lubricated, this switch is almost perfectly silent and, more importantly, manages to do so with hardly any of the “mushy” or “mushy” feel that most muted switches have. Instead, it has a clean, slightly soft background that’s only given away by the lack of accompanying audible feedback. In second place is the somewhat quieter one. Bobagum Gazzew. This switch is nearly silent, and while it does have the usual “squishy” silicone feel when bottoming out, it’s not that bad when the rest of the switch is as soft as it is. If you’re a fairly light typist who doesn’t bottom out when pressing keys, or don’t mind bottoming out a little softer, these are great too.
Linear switches
Linear switches are usually the default choice for mechanical switches. My two favorites are from Gateron: Oil King Switches ($49 for 70) and Cream and soda switches ($53 for 70). Oil Kings are one of the best linear switches available today. Right out of the box, they’re smooth, sound great, and don’t require any modifications. There is no need to lubricate them, film them, change springs or anything else. Simply place them on a keyboard and you’re done. Cream Soda switches, on the other hand, are a great combination of different switch technologies. Using a long post stem for a more distinctive, patented bottom sound Ink plastic for a smooth, deep sound, and factory lube that’s on par with manual lube, they feel incredibly smooth and sound great right out of the box, although they can still benefit from adding film to them.
Tactile switches
I find that a lot of people look for the wrong things when purchasing touch switches. While ultra-tactile switches with distinct bumps are popular online, I find that these types of switches often only feel good on their own and can be difficult for the average person to adapt to. Instead, I always advocate for something in between: a crisp, responsive stroke that isn’t so drastic as to be distracting when typing or uncomfortable after extended periods.
The classics always hold up: Durock T1 ($45 for 110) Switches are a great starting point and I’ve always had a soft spot for Novelkeys Touch Cream ($12 for 10) switches, even if you need to break them quite a bit compared to other switches. Drops Holy Pandas ($42 for 35) They mostly deserve their reputation – they’re a solid, heavy touch device that feels great to type on – and I’ll always love them. Boba U4T for its fantastic sound profile and great tactile impact too.
Avoid these keyboards
Not all keyboards will be winners. Here are some that I don’t think are worth the price.
Satechi SM1 for $99: I don’t feel obligated or inspired by this keyboard in any way, and when you spend $100 or more on a keyboard, ought be inspiring, or at least pleasant to use. The SM1’s typing experience is disappointing even by low-profile keyboard standards. It sounds hollow when typing, has a shallow, creaky keystroke, and the build quality doesn’t feel solid at all. Despite being mechanical, I would compare the user experience to a laptop’s built-in keyboard in terms of build and typing satisfaction. Combining this with the lack of customization software (i.e. a completely fixed layout) and the use of proprietary tactile switches with no hot-swap capability, the Satechi SM1 is a disappointing keyboard, especially compared to standard-height mechanical keyboards. in the same price range.
HiGround 65 Opal Base for $120: In my testing (5/10, WIRED review), I found that Opal Base 65 fell behind the competition in almost every way. With a tray-mount assembly, complicated software, and a one-piece plastic case, I see no reason to choose this keyboard over anything else.
KSI Wombat Sauce for $145: I wanted to like this keyboard as it has everything I need. ought such as: a unique design, a metal case, PBT keycaps and Gateron switches. But it just doesn’t work that well. Typing sounds hollow and noisy, the typing angles are completely flat or almost flat, and for some reason every time I enable caps lock, it automatically writes “20 02 00” (and after doing a factory reset, it writes “01 06 07” instead.) I couldn’t find any way to fix this using KSI’s WB Pouch software. However, it does do some clever things: The numeric keypad is positioned so that the The main keyboard’s Enter key can be pressed with your thumb during use, and the two rows of function keys consolidate many keys vertically to save horizontal space. I wish the assembly and polishing matched the grand vision of this keyboard because the idea. in itself is fantastic.
